"This has a bit more of a steely edge than the fruitier 2014 Brut, a crisper feel and a hint of stones. There is a little more barrel here, too, but there is not much on either. The Brut is sexier, but this is a little more intense. This will win in the end, but at this point, pick 'em according to your taste. This should age well, as they all tend to do."

"Full-bodied and concentrated, this rolls around the mouth and coats the palate nicely. The fruit is reasonably fresh despite the long aging, but the nose, in particular, shows complexities of age. It lingers on the palate beautifully, the underlying acidity supporting the wine well. It's pretty delicious too, in a dry and serious fashion, with just a hint of truffle. This is impressive on many fronts, in short. It is also very well priced, a terrific bargain."

"Probably the most intense of the sparklers, by a little bit, this still has finesse, elegance and that big, crisp finish nuanced with dried red fruits. For all of the nice acidity, this is impeccably balanced. I hate to sound like a broken record, but this really shows well, again. The winery is doing well with both consistency and quality. This would be my pick of the sparklers, but it is pretty close, and reasonable minds may differ."

"The 2016 Blanc de Noirs is a 75/25 blend of Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir—an unusual blend, due to warm vintage conditions that the winery liked for the Pinot Meunier—coming in with eight grams of residual sugar, 8.5 of total acidity and 12% alcohol. A tiny amount of the juice (5%) was fermented in used French oak. Per the sticker on the back (happily, the winery is transparent), this was disgorged in July 2020 after about 40 months on the lees. Crisp and textured with steel and silk, this works out well. There's tension on the long finish and plenty of power. In structure, it doesn't lose anything compared to different blends. However, it is a little less impressive in character and complexity. This energetic sparkler is still pretty terrific. It should age well, maybe better than noted. There were 140 cases produced."

""The 2017 Blanc de Noirs only has one "noir" this year, unlike the prior vintage—it is all Pinot Noir. It comes in with eight grams of residual sugar, 10.2 of total acidity and just 11% alcohol. About 5% of the juice was oak-aged. Per the sticker on the back (happily, the winery is transparent), this was disgorged in February 2021 after about 35 months on the lees. Unlike the Brut blend this year, this Pinot Noir shows off stronger fruit flavors, although it finishes very dry. The signature this year is certainly the acidity. The wine is light but bright and vigorous. The fruit is defined and lifted by the fine acidity that gives this a mouthwatering finish. This, like its sibling, shows relatively little complexity, but if there's a quibble, it does not seem to be a big step up compared to the Brut blend, contrary to what the price spike might imply. It was my personal favorite, but that will mostly depend on your personal taste.""

"It results in a wine with silky texture, elegance and nuanced flavors—neither fully blue fruit or red fruit but something intriguingly in the middle. It has good depth for the price level, region and grapes. In its youth, it is solid while still maintaining its finesse. The tannins are ripe for a young wine, but happily, there is a sign of a backbone."

"This combines rich fruit with good acidity, making a consumer-friendly sparkler that tastes great yet still has some distinction. This is the sexiest of the sparklers, although not the most intense or complex. This should easily last another decade, more perhaps. It is young and vibrant today."

"Beautifully done, this seems fresh and balanced. It tastes great, but the acidity supports the fruit and always makes this seem dry and serious, not just fruity. There's a crispy finish with slight nuances of toast. Mostly, this is not about complexity, but it is vibrant and lovely overall, a middle-of-the-road sparkler that still has notable distinction at a rather nice price."

"This puts it all together in most respects—concentration, structure and smooth, sensual texture. Powerfully built for such an inexpensive wine, it is also one in need of some time to develop. "

"Showing more sugar than its siblings, this still has good acidity and a fresh feel. Nicely done in its style, this is going to be a consumer favorite for picnics and the like, but it has a little distinction too. Did I mention that it tastes great? It may age longer than anticipated, but this should really be drunk fresh, when it is at its most exuberant point."

"Fresh and friendly, this does show a little wood at times, but there is enough unoaked juice so that it shows its fruit and liveliness too. Respectably concentrated for the level."

"This is a Dry Riesling with a lot of energy, fine focus and excellent concentration. This tightly-wound Riesling combines structure and fine fruit perfectly. The fruit is expressive, fresh and aromatic. The tension on the finish allows it to linger nicely. There's a bit of steel underneath. Dr. Frank is right on the mark here, all for a very nice price. It is a can't-miss bargain. It should age pretty well and it will likely be better this time next year."

"Lively and sunny, this has a fresh and friendly feel up front, but then it proves that it has fine persistence and some power too. It's dry, but not austere. This has beautiful length on the finish. The mid-palate is elegant, but it has enough concentration. It's another fine Riesling value in the Finger Lakes."

"My tongue is still tingling—the sugar here merely prevents the acidity from running away with this wine, but there is plenty of power on the gripping and tense finish. After the enticing and classic aromatics, this finishes with a bang. There is a hint of petrol as it warms and airs out, but not much. Beautifully done and very elegant, it's another fine value from the winery this issue."

"This has beautiful flavors and respectable concentration for the difficult vintage and the level. The energy is less impressive—it's round and harmonious, an easy-drinker. It does have a bit of distinction, though. "

"It certainly seemed concentrated, round and easy to drink on opening, surprisingly lush when contrasted with the last vintage I saw. It started out with a rich and full-bodied feel. The underlying acidity and tension are there, though, even if not overly aggressive in the wine's youth. As this aired out, it became more transparent, the overall concentration notwithstanding, but remained very approachable. Then, retasted the next day, it changed notably. Suddenly, it was all about the structure again. As it warmed, it added classic flavors and a touch of petrol, something to watch. It took another hour for the wine to come back into balance. This Riesling can indeed use the extra time the winery is giving it."

"The juicy and tense finish, however, has a bright and precise combination of power and delicacy to it that makes it simply special. This should have the opportunity to continue improving for a decade or more. As it comes into better balance, it should become even more interesting."

"This is very well done, another fine bargain from Dr. Frank. This screams Gewürz in character. It's heavier on the lychees than on the spice, but those flavors linger a long while. It has good concentration for the level, although it could be more tightly wound. It is more persistent than it seems at first, though. It's also pretty delicious, if you like Gewürz, and impeccably balanced. The sugar doesn't stand out at all—it simply cuts the inherent bitterness of the grape. This is well done."

"This is sourced from Keuka vineyard blocks from 1968 and 1981. Enticingly aromatic with its classic rose petal nuances, this is a balanced Gewürz that shows off some lychees on the finish. The modest sugar is easily offset by the acidity. Very gentle and just a touch bland for this grape, it lacks some power and doesn't show much spice, but the rest is quite well done, certain to make fans of this grape happy at a pretty nice price. This is always a nice and consistent offering, never quite having the structure to rise to star status, but always delivering plenty of easy-sipping value."

"This is a very nice bargain in its youth. It is not the biggest or most powerful Grüner, but it has good concentration and coats the palate nicely. There is reasonable tension on the finish and white pepper and spice as well."

"Granting that they are not all here, this seems like one of the better performances for this grape from the winery. With touches of pepper on the finish, it feels reasonably full in the mouth and adds some power. It succeeds, though, because it is very expressive this year while maintaining its focus and precision. It has the structure to hold, and under screw cap, it should do pretty well. Of the producer's still whites not named "Riesling," I debated whether this or the regular Rkatsiteli was the best. Ultimately, I gave the latter a slight nod, but it was close. We'll see what happens in a couple of years."

"This kitchen-sink blend is intriguing, to say the least. It has a medley of flavors from herbs to plums, mostly leaning to darker fruits. The acidity creates a juicy finish. The structure is excellent, the concentration good. It has the depth and power to age beautifully. You could drink it now if you wanted to, but I'd say this needs a couple of years of cellaring. I won't be surprised if it holds 15+ years—and it might improve notably in time as well. Let's be a little conservative on this new bottling, but the future looks bright."

"This is pretty beautiful, textured, fruity and gripping on the finish. The sugar is a bit obvious just now, but the acidity carefully defines the fruit and balances the wine. It doesn't seem anywhere near as obvious as the eight grams of sugar would suggest (still "medium dry" in any event, very much a table wine). This is well done and quite delicious. It should age pretty well too, but there is no reason to wait."

"The 2019 Rkatsiteli, from Keuka Lake vines planted variously in 1983, 1983 and 2003, comes in with seven grams of residual sugar, 9.2 of total acidity and 12% alcohol. The acidity pretty much obliterates the sugar here, leaving a crisp and somewhat nervy wine that still has great fruit, even as it seems a little lean on opening. The tension on the finish nicely lifts the fruit and slams it home. Wholly unevolved, this will improve in the bottle over the next year or two, becoming more harmonious. It will also be refreshing in the spring and summer of 2021, as warmer weather rolls into much of the country. This has been an extremely consistent and overachieving value for quite a while, and this is another fine release. With its structure and that screw cap, it should age well, maybe even better than indicated. If it can also develop well, it might turn into an even bigger star."

"This is on track to be my favorite vintage of this brand. Fresh and full of plums and blackberries, this is ultimately dry and crisp, the fruit gloriously lifted by the acidity. The tannins are ripe, but this has a backbone. It's a little tight just now. It also has reasonable concentration for the category. I've seen denser and fleshier versions, but this doesn't feel thin. Its freshness, on the other hand, is first rate. Overall, this enlivening and elegant red is always penetrating on the finish. It tastes great and it should age rather well."

"This shows off all those classic, vegetal Sauv Blanc nuances. It's aromatic, distinctive and flavorful. It is also beautifully textured on the moderately tense finish. The remaining issue is where this goes from here. I'm reluctant to lean up too far on wines that will not age and develop. That said, this seems nicely structured, concentrated relative to the style, level and region and very invigorating. It's another fine value, remarkably pleasing in its youth."

"Full in the mouth, it finishes with a somewhat sweet edge but the underlying acidity cuts the sugar nicely. The finish lingers, with acidity, sugar and fruit well balanced. As it warms it leans more to the sex appeal side of the ledger but the juicy finish also has a burst of acidity that manages to hold the sugar in check. At the price point this is a can't-miss bargain. It should age rather well, too. The sugar will no doubt fade a bit in time."

"Fresh and lively, this has a bright and sunny feel, the acidity easily matching the sugar. Its irresistible perkiness makes it a pleasure to drink. It is easily still a table wine—it controls the sugar beautifully. This was a tricky vintage. Dr. Frank navigated the choppy waters well here. This is a fine value."

"Not quite as aggressive as the Dry Riesling, this nonetheless shows off its nice acidity early and often. Focused, precise and pure, it has fine balance. At this price level, this (like its sibling) is a no-brainer purchase. The Dry Riesling has a lot more energy, while this is predictably lusher. Reasonable minds and personal preferences might differ as to which is better. I'd give the nod to the Dry Riesling just now, but it might depend on my mood and how I would use it."

"The 2019 Winter Ferment Gewürztraminer Semi-Dry is unoaked and unusual. By "Winter Ferment," the winery means that the grapes are frozen for three months at zero degrees after pressing, then "allowed to thaw naturally, and then normal fermentation begins. We stop the fermentation before dryness," resulting in this semi-dry white. It comes in with 23 grams of residual sugar, 6.9 of total acidity and 11.5% alcohol. It is sourced from the winery's 1968 and 1981 plantings. A radically different wine than the regular Gewürz this issue, this is on the sweeter and richer side. It lacks the precision of the regular bottling, but it settles onto the palate and coats it. Plus, there is some grip on the finish. The character of the grape comes through, but of course, it is a bit muted with this vinification process. This isn't sweet enough to be a dessert wine, but it does have enough sugar to be like an off-dry Mosel Spätlese. This will be acceptable at the table with the right food pairing, but its highest and best use might be for sipping on its own. It's pretty delicious. Under screw cap, it should age reasonably well, but cellaring it is not really the point here."